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Aquarist & Pondkeeper Articles

Coldwater

Arthur Boarder was one of the U.K.’s best known and respected Goldfish breeders and wrote regularly for A&P over many years. This article first appeared in April 1951 and despite the passing years is still just as valid today as it was when he wrote it.

Goldfish breeding in tanks and ponds.

By A.Boarder

Comet Goldfish like these will happily breed in an outdoor pondWith the advent of spring all pondkeepers and many aquarists as well will be looking forward to breeding their fishes. Now, it is possible to breed many types of goldfish in ponds and also in tanks but it must be realised that the better the conditions then the better the chance of success. For instance, if one has a pond large enough the fishes can be left to themselves and are almost sure to spawn; then there will be many fry reared to strong healthy fishes. If, on the other hand, one only has a tank of 36 ins. by 12 ins. by 12 ins., then it can be understood quite readily that the chances of breeding fishes therein are much smaller.

It is not impossible, though, by any means, as some aquarists have managed to breed a few fish in such quarters. Of course, the more fishes in the tank then the less chance is there of success. I advise all who are keen to breed a few goldfish in an indoor tank of the size mentioned to cut down the number of fishes to a minimum, so that there will not be so much chance of other fishes eating the eggs or young fry. Two male fish and one female fish are all that is necessary, and if you try to have more then you will not be as likely to get some youngsters. The tank should be well planted with water plants such as Myriophyllum, hornwort, Elodea and willow moss. Any fine-leafed plants will do but there must be plenty so that there is not only plenty of cover for the fry but also enough growing plants to assist in oxygenating the water (ed.note: aeration is a better option today).

The tank should stand near a window—one which faces the rising sun if possible, but not directly in front of it; better if it is at right angles to it so that only the end faces the window. See that the tank is in a healthy condition and change practically all the water before you actually try to get the fish to spawn. Remove all snails from the tank as these will only eat many eggs of the fishes when laid. The provision of some artificial lighting for the tank is an advantage but is not absolutely essential. Over a tank of the size mentioned two 25-watt lamps will do to give that little extra light and warmth on dull days. They should not be kept on for long periods but when there is little or no sunshine then it is beneficial to put the lamps on for a while.

Feed the fishes well and often on chopped earthworms and only a little of the ordinary packet food if you have been using this. Do not change the whole diet at once but gradually change it to an almost entirely living one if possible. White worms, Tubifex, Daphnia and mosquito larvae will all help to bring the breeding fish into that tip-top condition which ensures a good spawning.

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